The Magic of Shirt-making in 16 Gestures
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Welcome and client consultation
1. Welcome and Client Consultation: a personal meeting to understand the client’s needs, habits, and style.
2. Selection of Model and Fabric: choice of design and fabric from our curated collections of fine Italian and English cottons, wools and linens.
3. Body Measurements: measurements are taken directly on the body to ensure absolute precision.
4. Creation of the Client’s Measurement Sheet: a dedicated record including all individual measurements and fitting notes.
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Fabric preparation
5. Fabric Order: selected fabric is ordered and registered for traceability.
6. Fabric Bath: the fabric is soaked in cold water for 12 hours to prevent future shrinkage.
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"Imbastitura"
7. Drafting the First Paper Pattern: the client’s first pattern is drawn and prepared for cutting.
8. Fabric Pressing: the fabric is carefully ironed before marking and cutting.
9. Marking and Cutting: the shirt is cut with allowances left for potential adjustments. Yoke, collar, and cuffs are initially made with trial interlining.
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First fitting appointment
10. First Basting and Fitting Appointment: the shirt is fully basted by hand and prepared for the first fitting. A date for the fitting is scheduled with the client.
11. Fitting and Corrections: during the fitting, all necessary adjustments are marked directly on the shirt.
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Re-doing
12. Disassembling and Re-pressing: the basted shirt is completely unstitched, each piece pressed again, and the pattern corrected.
13. Pattern Adjustment and Recutting: with the corrected paper pattern, the shirt is recut precisely, including yoke, collar, and cuffs.
14. Preparation of Collar and Cuffs
* Interlinings (non-fused, non-adhesive) are basted by hand.
* The collar stand is prepared with its removable stays.
* Collars and cuffs are machine assembled, and interlinings are secured with hand stitching.
* The non-adhesive interlining, moistened and secured with hand stitching, prevents bubbling and maintains a naturally rounded shape.
*Collar and cuffs are finished with machine topstitching - now ready to be attached to the shirt.
15. Final preparation and Assembly of the Shirt
* Sleeves are prepared and sewn.
* The shirt body is sewn.
* The front placket is basted and hand-finished with a fine, elegant stitch.
* The shirt is pressed.
* The yoke and shoulders are finished with machine topstitching.
* The collar is attached: the first stitching is done by machine, the second by hand.
This process has three advantages:
1. It gives collar and cuffs a refined, rounded appearance (machine stitching flattens the shape).
2. It feels more comfortable when worn, as hand stitching is less tight.
3. If the collar or cuffs need replacing, hand stitching causes less damage to the fabric and simplifies the process - allowing even a non-specialist seamstress to replace them.
* The sleeves are attached with the sleeve seam offset from the side seam, allowing greater arm movement and creating a more harmonious line.
* The armhole is hand-felled, providing a clean, refined, and comfortable finish (as with collars and cuffs).
* The hem is sewn by machine. All machine stitching on the shirt must be done with high-quality thread and short stitches - about 8 stitches per centimetre - for strength and durability.
* The side gusset (a small diamond-shaped piece of fabric reinforcing the lower side seam) is applied by hand.